Self-Fulfilling Prophecy

What you see is quite often what you get.

Both of the dogs I work with, Risa and Callie, are the types of dogs that can cause great frustration for me. Risa is a less frustrating dog these days now that her fears and reactive behaviors are generally kept in check. But, when I first brought her home, life with her was fraught with the potential for conflict. I knew what she was likely to do. Run from people. Bark and lunge at other dogs. Put on the breaks if we got near something frightening. The sight of other dogs started to fill me with dread. Seeing people coming towards us in the hallway made me roll my eyes in anticipation of her frantic behavior. I knew it was coming and it generally did. I started to see her as this problem on a leash. Walks together were not fun. They were a walk through the gauntlet. It was only a matter of time before I lost my cool with her on a walk and spent the remainder of it seething over my dog’s issues. It’s hard to have a good partnership when you feel this great sense of disappointment every time you have to take your dog out.

Almost 5 years later, Callie enters my life. While she’s not my dog, I’m the one currently doing the majority of her training so she feels a little bit like mine. Unfortunately, she doesn’t get the training consistency Risa did and Callie has a very low frustration tolerance. She’s quite social and thinks every time she sees another person or dog that she’s going to get to say “Hi” to them. However, her training is preparing her to be a service dog so she cannot start parties every time she sees a potential friend. I have to the be person who says “No” and that causes her to act out a bit.

It’s almost like having Risa all over again. Walks have to be carefully planned. Every moment together is a training session whether I want it to be or not. I know how she reacts to those stimuli. I usually know what’s coming. And I still don’t always handle it well. It drains on you when you constantly have to be on your toes and training. There is no break. And so I start to dread having to work with her on her issues every time we’re together.

I can be good and you know it!

That’s not to say she hasn’t made improvements. Her self control has improved and she doesn’t throw herself at oncoming people and dogs as frequently as she did before. It was the same with Risa. Ris made progress that I could see at the time. But it’s hard to shake that knowledge of what they were. That anticipation of dread when putting the two of you in those situations again and again.

Sometimes, however, your feelings become a self-fulfilling prophecy. You expect poor behavior and you get it in spades. Then you feel even more frustrated which flows down the leash to your dog and increases the problems. You really have to change your mind and look for what you would like to see rather than focusing on what you’re expecting to see.

Last week, I had an outstanding session with Callie. I’ve been working with her a bit more frequently and consistently which helps. But this time, I was my attitude that helped her be so successful. For whatever reason, I didn’t see her as that crazy party dog who didn’t give a rat’s behind what I thought. I was connected with her and knew she could behave. While she did get overly aroused around the other dogs, she was not out of control. It didn’t take much for me to get her refocused. Several times, I could see the gears turning in her head as she looked at the other dog coming close and then she would whip her head around to look at me. CLICK/TREAT! Her sits and downs were better. Her attention on me was much improved. We were even able to replicate a restaurant setting where all 3 of us and the dogs sat around a table and conversed while our dogs lay by our sides. Not once did Callie attempt to start a play session with other dogs while we pretended we were dining. She did get up a couple times which is to be expected; we’d never done this before! But she never lost control.

I was so proud of her. For once, I didn’t approach working with her as a potentially frustrating event. I saw it in a positive light and her performance reflected it. Sometimes, you really need to look in the mirror to discover whose fault it really is. Sometimes, a simple change of your attitude is all that is needed for your dog to start reaching her true potential. The potential you know is there.

Posted in Thoughts, Training | Leave a comment

When To Speak Up

Someone was looking out for us. . .

I often talk about being an advocate for your dog when it comes to training. I advise telling people “No” if they try to pet your fearful dog. I recommend watching a training class before you sign up to be certain it fits what you’re looking for and, even then, being willing to stand up and say “No” if you don’t agree with what you’re being told. But training isn’t the only time you need to advocate for your dog.

For the first time in almost 5.5 years, I found a tick on Risa this December. I couldn’t believe it. We’d been lucky so long. I had wanted to get the tick itself tested to determine whether or not it was carrying any tick-borne illnesses but it turned out that option is no longer available. The only choice I had was to wait 6 weeks and have Risa’s blood drawn and tested.

I brought her in this week to have the blood draw. I even still had the tick so I brought it in for identification as well. It was a deer tick, much to my dismay, though it was not fully engorged. I was a bit more optimistic that we might have gotten lucky; the tick hadn’t been there for too long. The vet ran the test in house so we got results shortly after I arrived home. They weren’t sure why I had asked for the test to be run as Risa had it run 6 months earlier at her annual visit. When I mentioned that I had found a tick on her, I was informed that one of the technicians thought they had seen a slight bit of dye on the Lyme portion of the test. I inquired further and discovered that only one of the techs thought it could be a positive and no one else who looked at it saw anything. Even Risa’s vet thought it was a negative result. But her vet recommended re-testing with a more sensitive tick test in four weeks.

This didn’t sit right with me. I had already waited 6 weeks to see if maybe she was infected and I didn’t want to wait 4 more if she was actually Lyme positive. (Lyme can be a very sneaky disease and cause some serious, chronic problems if left untreated.) I found out through a friend of mine and the test manufacturer’s website that even the slightest bit of dye indicates a positive result. I called the vet to discuss this with her further and suggested that maybe we should start Risa on antibiotics anyway as a precaution. I was worried. I had recently noticed Risa seemed to be experiencing some joint discomfort, especially on our walks. I knew that inflammation of the joints was a symptom of Lyme. Having a ‘weak positive’ Lyme test and joint issues made me suspect something was going on.

When I got a chance to speak to the doctor, she put my mind at ease. She really didn’t think the test was positive and didn’t want to start Risa on a course of doxycycline (the antibiotic most often used to treat tick diseases) just in case. After all, if Risa were positive, she didn’t have a value for the level of the disease so there was no way to judge whether or not the treatment was effective. I discussed my options with her and decided to have the Snap test redone the next day. I brought Risa in again (she was thrilled to be sure) and we had the blood draw done again. This time, it was sent directly to the lab to be tested so that, if it did come up positive, they would run the C6 and determine the level of the disease automatically (and for a cheaper price than having the C6 done alone).

I hate to think of what might have happened if I hadn't had the test redone.

At this point, I thought we’d dodged a bullet. I felt like I was being stupid for questioning my vet and insisting something be done. I got a call Friday night about Risa’s newest results and she did indeed test positive for Lyme disease. Her vet set up the medication for her and I started her on it yesterday.

Throughout this whole ordeal, I felt like someone was looking out for us. Had the heartworm/tick test been done at her annual visit, I might never have gotten a call about it. Everyone would have assumed it was a negative result and I would have gone on with life while Risa got sicker. While the disease went untreated. As difficult as it was to question my veterinarian, I’m glad I did. It’s never easy to question someone who has more experience and knowledge than you do. It was even tougher for me because I used to work at that hospital.

Our vet has always been accepting of my ‘outside the box’ choices when it comes to Risa. She’s not a fan of raw feeding at all but has always been impressed with Risa’s teeth and her overall health. Even though she doesn’t condone what I do, she never gives me a hard time about it and can clearly see it’s working for us. She’s also been great in handling Risa who is a less than ideal patient with her intense veterinary fears. So it was not easy to be upset, worried, and insist we do something. But I’m so glad I did.

Posted in Causes, Thoughts, Veterinarian | Leave a comment

Portrait Progress

It’s not often I take the time to keep track of my progress as I work on a portrait. But, every once in a while, it’s fun to keep a record of it. Since I finally decided it was time to do a portrait of my own dog, I scanned it as I worked on it.

I actually thought I wouldn’t be able to do a portrait of my own pet. I’m so picky when it comes to the portraits that I thought I’d only be able to see the glaring errors and never be able to enjoy the drawing. Fortunately, that didn’t turn out to be the case at all. This is one portrait I am glad I don’t have to part with! It was a lot of fun to work on; especially with the more vivid color scheme. I’m pretty darn proud of this piece. It captures my silly, grinny girl to a T.

December 16, 2011. The sketch with a small portion rendered.

December 23, 2011.

December 30, 2011.

Eyes done! January 3, 2012.

January 6, 2012.

January 15, 2012.

January 19, 2012.

Big ol' ears done. January 20, 2012.

January 21, 2012.

The finished product. My misfit. January 25, 2012.

Posted in Artwork | 1 Comment

The Language of Fear

The face of fear isn't always easy to see. Risa is not a fan of pet stores. Can you see the fear?

I was watching a trainer work with a fearful dog over the weekend and I was a bit disappointed with what I saw. The trainer seemed to zero in on the dog’s tail position as the sole way of determining the dog’s emotional state. This trainer removed the dog’s tail from a tight tuck between the dog’s legs in a way to decrease the fear. However, the trainer totally ignored the rest of the dog’s behavior which clearly stated she was still uncomfortable despite her tail no longer being tucked.

This got me to thinking about how many different ways dogs show fear. Some ways that seem counter-intuitive as well.

(FWIW, I have removed Risa’s tucked tail from between her legs to try and calm her down somewhat. That whole “if you can’t make it, fake it” sort of thing. Though I find it is less effective than actually training a dog to be less fearful in that situation by using a classical conditioning and/or desensitization protocol.)

Tails

Most people recognized a tucked tail as a sign of fear. Especially if the tip of the tail is touching the underbelly! But that’s the extreme version. There are many other, more subtle signs that I think many people overlook.

Risa is extremely fearful of thunderstorms but I rarely see her tuck her tail tightly during them. If you look at her tail closely, however, you can see that the base of her tail is held tight to her body, sometimes with the rest of her tail off to the side slightly. I have also see her with her tail tucked tight to her side (if she’s laying down). I noticed the dog that the aforementioned trainer worked with doing that: laying with the tail at her side but still tucked tightly. While the tail is not between the legs, it is still tense and is a sign that the dog is uncomfortable.

Uncertainty can also be expressed in a stiff, low, quick tail wag. Especially if the wag is more towards the left side of the body. With reactive dogs (whose behaviors are also based in fear), a high tail flag can also signal fearful behavior. (A tail that is ‘flagging’ is a tail held high over the back and usually wagging stiffly.)

Panting

The differences between types of panting. Which Risa looks more comfortable to you? (Thanks to my friend, Tena, for the photo on the right.)

Ahh the doggie version of a smile. Most people see a dog with an open mouth, panting as a relaxed dog. But it’s not quite that simple.

Dogs who pant out of fear do not look the same as dogs who pant out of excitement or excessive heat. Firstly, if it’s not warm at your location and if the dog hasn’t recently been exercised, panting could be a fearful response.

If a pant is based in fear, you’ll often notice the commissures (the corners of the mouth) are pulled back tightly. You may also notice a bit of a wrinkle there (though Risa wrinkles there no matter how she feels). The panting may also be far more rapid than usual and tends to produce excessive saliva. Risa is far more drooly and wet-mouthed when she’s afraid versus after a heavy session of exercise.

Ears

On the left, you can see how tightly pinned back Risa's ears are. She is very uncomfortable. On the right, however, her ears are held back more loosely.

Ear position, like tail position, is a fairly easy way to gain insight into how your dog feels. Most fearful dogs will pin their ears back when they are afraid. There is a visible difference between ears that are simply being held back versus ears that are pinned back. You can see the tension in pinned ears. Depending on the conformation of the dog you’re watching, the ears may even be close to touching when they’re pinned.

There may be some variance as well. If a dog is noise phobic, for example, they may put their ears forward upon hearing the sound and then immediately pin the ears back. Even the ‘alert’ appearance of the ears may differ from a usual alert look. Again, with reactive dogs, the ears may come forward and ‘lock on’ to the stimulus. Remember, reactive dogs often develop a “get him before he gets me” response so their body language becomes more characteristic of a confident or belligerent dog.

Eyes

A relaxed dog often has what is referred to as ‘soft eyes.’ The lids are relaxed and might even be partially closed. Fearful dogs often have very wide open eyes. Their gaze may be unfocused and you may even be able to see the sclera (whites of the eyes) in what’s known as a “whale eye.” Their eyes may also dart back and forth around the room looking for the source of their fear or a good place to run and hide.

Body Posture

Fearful dogs often slink around, crouched low to the ground. You may notice that their spine is curved upwards in the middle with their head and tail held low. Muscles are clenched tight and the body is stiff.

Barking

I've often been told you have less to fear from a barking dog than one who silently stares at you.

A fearful dog’s bark is pretty easy to distinguish. It’s usually a series of rapid-fire, short, staccato barks. Bah-roo-roo-roo-roo-roo-roo!!!

Growling

A growl is a vocal way that a dog let’s you know they’re feeling uncomfortable. It’s designed to increase distance; a way for your dog to say “back off.”

Fight or Flight

When given the choice, most fearful dogs simply run away when they’re scared. But, every dog is different. While one may flee in terror another may decide to confront the fear in the hopes of scaring it away.

Risa is definitely a ‘flight’ dog. She’ll run if given the option. But many of her responses to fearful stimuli represent the ‘fight’ side of the equation as well. With many reactive dogs, they’re placed in situations where flight is not an option. Being on leash or in a confined area eliminates the option of fleeing. So, instead, they use aggressive behaviors to try and increase the distance between them and the scary thing.

Shaking/Sweaty Paws

If it’s not cold out, it’s likely that shaking is fear-related. (Though some small dogs, like Chihuahuas, shake naturally.) Sweaty paw pads can also be sign of extreme fear.

Pulling on the Leash

With a dog who has proper leash-walking behavior, pulling on the leash can be a sign of anxiety. While Risa is far from dragging me down the street when she’s in a new area on leash, I feel a lot more tension on it. Even after giving her a couple reminders to not pull (usually the “be a tree” method), the pulling continues. Because I know it’s anxiety-related, I usually just let it go. As her confidence has increased, the leash pulling has decreased.

This is not an all-inclusive list but does go to show that you really have to take in the entire dog and their behaviors to determine how they feel at that moment. You cannot simply look at one part of their anatomy and determine their inner state of mind. Along with that, we will never truly know what our dogs are thinking and some dogs are easier to read than others. Risa, for example, reads like a well-loved book you’ve turned the pages of more times than you can count. But some dogs read more like a mystery novel!

Listening to your fearful dog is the first step in rehabilitating one. Once they know you’re listening and that they can communicate their fears to you, things go a lot easier.

Posted in Fear, Reactivity, Thoughts | Leave a comment

Trial Gear

For anyone new to trialing, it can be difficult to determine just what you need to bring with you. I know I’ve added and subtracted things as I’ve gone along. Some things are vital and others depend greatly on your dog. The following is a brief overview of what I bring to a trial.

A crate is probably the most important item you can bring with you to a dog show.

A Crate

I can’t imagine attending a trial without having a crate for Risa. It gives her a safe sanctuary to retreat to while she’s waiting for her turn in the ring. The crate also allows me some time off where I don’t need to have my 100% undivided attention on her. With her safely kenneled, I can practice our routine in the ring before a freestyle competition. I can do our rally walkthroughs without worrying about finding someone to hold onto her leash (though I can’t imagine doing that with Risa at all). And, when it comes to lure coursing, I don’t have to hold onto the crazy monster as we wait for our run!!

There are various styles of crate that you can use for trialing. Wire crates, airline crates, and soft-sided pop-up kennels are the most common. Which you use is up to you and will depend a lot on your dog.

I rarely see airline crates used at competition sites. They’re bulky and cumbersome. I have seen small dog owners using them but, of course, a small Varikennel is much easier to tote around than Risa’s behemoth box.

Risa in her pop-up kennel. I like to use this for classes and when we stay in hotels but I never use it for trials.

Soft-sided kennels are also very popular. They’re lightweight and fold up easily for carrying. However, you must be certain your dog is properly crate trained to use them. A dog who really wants to get out of these style of crates could (and a dog who wants to get IN could as well!). Some dogs will also roll them around like a hamsterball which is less than ideal at a trial. 😉 They come in various sizes, styles, and prices. From cheap $25 pop-ups to $150 Canine Campers.

I prefer to use a nice folding wire crate. It’s open on all sides which provides great airflow. (Due to Risa’s issues around other dogs, I usually put a blanket around the kennel walls to block her vision. The top is still open, though.) It’s also sturdy and will keep my dog IN and other dogs OUT. The only problem is that a wire crate is heavier than the others and can be a bit unwieldy to carry around.

No matter what type of crate you decide to use, it’s best to check your show premium to make sure your choice is allowed. Depending on the venue, they may not allow you to use a soft-sided crate. (Most agility competitions will allow soft-sided crates. Conformation showing is very strict and only permits solid kennels that can be stacked.) If you’re not sure and can’t find the information in the premium, contact the show chair and ask.

Some people prefer to use an X-pen (exercise pen) instead of a kennel for their dogs. If you’re going to use an X-pen, I would make certain your dog is not the type that may jump out of it during the excitement of a trial. (I’ve seen it happen!) Also, check and make sure that it’s permitted. Not all shows will allow the use of X-pens for canine containment.

The crate should be comfortable since your dog will be in there for the majority of the day.

Crate Accessories

This is an all-encompassing category for stuff you’re going to put in the crate to make your dog’s stay there comfortable. Since laying on plastic is less than ideal, I would recommend putting something soft along the bottom for your dog. A crate pad, rug, or blanket would be fine. If it’s warm, you could consider using a cooling mat. Blankets work well when temperatures are lower or if you have a dog who likes to burrow.

You should also have a way of dispensing water. They make buckets and bowls that clip to the sides of kennels or you can use a folding travel bowl to deliver your dog’s water. Risa tends to dump the travel bowl when she trials either through sheer excitement (when lure coursing) or in the process of adjusting her bedding. So I got her a bowl that clips to the side of her kennel so that she doesn’t end up laying in dampness. You should also bring plenty of water with you especially if you’re trialing outdoors. There may not be anyplace nearby to get water for your dog otherwise!

Along with bedding and water, you may consider bringing something for your dog to do. Some dogs may tolerate being kenneled for long periods better if they have a toy to play with or something to chew on. It could also help ease any anxiety they may feel about being at the trial site.

If you have a dog who guards their kennel or gets anxious having so much traffic walking past them, it would be a good idea to bring a blanket to place over the crate to block their view. You can simply drape it over the top or clothespin it around the perimeter like I do for Risa.

Food/Reinforcement

If you’re planning on doing any warmup exercises before you enter the ring and if you want to reward your dog for doing a good job in the ring (which you should!), you’d better have some good stuff with you. I usually bring high-value food rewards for use in warmups and walking around the facility and then one special reward for after we compete. If your dog prefers a specific toy, bring that instead.

Make sure to check and see what types of collars are permitted in the venue you're competing in.

Collar(s)

Before showing up at the competition site, make sure you read the rules to determine what types of collars are permitted in the ring. Some venues restrict what types of collars you can use. I think all venues prohibit corrective collars (e-collars, pinch collars) and training harnesses (head halters and front-clip harnesses). AKC does allow the use of choke chains in the competition ring, however, even though they fall under the category of a corrective collar. Some venues will let dogs compete wearing regular body harnesses. If you’re not sure, your best bet is a flat buckle collar or a properly-fitted martingale collar. It doesn’t hurt to bring an extra collar either, just in case!

There are also some venues where your dog can, or is sometimes required to, compete without a collar at all. Several agility venues and AKC-sanctioned lure coursing events require dogs to run naked. Make sure you have a collar or harness that you can easily slip onto your dog after their event is over if they’ve been running collar-less.

Leashes are important as well. If you’re going to be competing in the ring on-leash, make sure your leash is the proper size. For example, in AKC Rally, dogs performing the Honor Exercise must be on a 6-foot leash!

Warm Weather Gear

If you’re trialing outdoors, especially in the hot summer months, there are several other things you may wish to bring. You could bring a cooling mat, as I mentioned above, to keep your dog cooler. Water is especially important when trialing in the heat. Depending on the trial location, there may not be a shady spot to set up your kennel. And, even if there is shade, it’s likely to be filled up fast!

Risa's Sportbrella provides instant shade wherever we go!

Many people bring their own shelters to create shade for their dogs at trials. Some people use tents. Others use pop-up canopies. Some even hang tarps off of their cars. I like the Sportbrella. My friend, Tena (at Success Just Clicks), introduced me to it when she brought hers lure coursing. I got one later that year for Christmas and it’s been a great addition to my trial gear.

I like it because it’s easy to fold up and carry AND it’s easy for one person to set up. Most of the portable canopies I’ve seen require at least two people to assemble. The Sportbrella is essentially a large umbrella that you simply open and tie down. Like any of these portable shelters, wind is your greatest enemy and can send your shelter flying. It’s best to tie them down and keep an eye on them when the wind is gusting.

Along with shade, you can also bring a portable fan. They come in various types and sizes. Some are smaller and rechargeable while others eat up 6 D batteries to keep your canine competitor cool. On a hot day, it’s nice to have your own portable breeze.

Rubber Bands

This probably seems like the most silly thing to bring but, especially if you’re competing in rally or obedience, you’ll need some way to attach your number to yourself. Most venues do supply rubber bands for you to use but I’ve found it’s not a bad idea to bring your own just in case. They also make fancy armbands and pins that you can purchase to display your competition number. Some venues don’t use the large paper numbers but stickers instead. It still never hurts to have some rubber bands with you anyway.

Seating

If you’re going to be there a while, it might not be a bad idea to bring a chair with you. Those fold-up camping chairs work best as they’re portable and easy to carry.

Probably my favorite thing to bring with me at trials: the portable cart!

Cart

With all that stuff to carry, probably my most favorite thing to bring is my folding cart. It makes it easy for me to lug all my trial gear from the car to the competition site. Instead of making 4 trips to get everything there, including Risa, it may take me as little as one trip! It easily fits all my dog gear (including a cooler of food and drinks for me!) and Risa’s kennel stacks neatly on top. If I’m worried some of my things may slide off as I cart them to our location, I can simply use bungee cords to tie everything down. The large wheels work great when moving everything across grass as well. I don’t think there’s been a show I’ve attended with my cart that I haven’t had someone ask me where I got it. It’s incredibly useful and certainly saves my back and shoulders. It also folds up neatly for easy storage in the back of my car.

So that’s my basic list of things I bring with me to trials. I may add or subtract things as needed. For example, I don’t need my Sportbrella when we’re competing indoors and there are a couple locations where I compete that are too narrow and tight for me to use my awesome cart. 🙂 But this is a good list to get you started when you’re not sure where to begin. Happy trials!

Posted in Dog Sports, Thoughts, Training | 2 Comments